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Filing
Use a flat file to smooth the outside edges of the metal.
If you are filing concave curves, use the rounded side of a half-round
file to smooth the curve. Secure the metal into one of the small
slots in the “V” section of the bench pin; these fine
slots are created when as you saw and eventually you will have
a lot of them. Using pressure on the file, file in a straight,
forward direction. Resist the temptation to saw back and forth
with the file. The teeth will only cut in the forward direction;
you may shorten the life of your file by going against the grain.
Use a half-round needle file to smooth the inside curve.
Sanding, Buffing, And Finishing
Locate the deepest scratch in your sheet metal and sand across
the scratch with the appropriate wet-dry sand paper or a sanding
sponge. You might start with #220 grit (coarse) and progressively
work down to #400, then #600 (fine). (After some experience you
will be able to determine what sand paper you need to start with).
After sanding against the scratch, sand in the same direction
as the scratch with the same grit. The last pass with a particular
grit should be against the scratch. When you start with a new
grit, sand in the same direction as the scratch. You are finished
when the prior sanding marks have been removed and you can no
longer see any scratches.
Buff with White Diamond Compound with a small stitched cotton
buff on your flex shaft.
Remember your safety glasses and wear a particulate mask for
this operation. Keep your buff moving so you don’t wear
a groove into the metal.
Alternatively, you can use a buffing machine.
In this image you see me applying White Diamond polishing
compound to the buffing wheel. White Diamond is a cutting compound
(it will help smooth the metal) and it will provide a moderately
high gloss. See above for the correct position of the buffing
compound.
I strongly urge you to get someone experienced in buffing
to guide you the first time. Wear a particulate mask and safety
glasses, remove loose clothing, and remove rings and bracelets.
Work in the buffing zone which is in the lower front half of
the wheel. If you are facing the wheel from the side, you will
be buffing between 6:00-9:00 on the right hand side and 3:00
and 6:00 on the left wheel. Apply pressure when buffing and make
sure you keep the piece moving. If the metal is caught by the
buffing wheel and springs backwards, let it go – you don’t
want your hands injured by the wheel. If you are buffing a rectangular
piece, only buff it lengthwise, not with the piece horizontally
placed in front of the wheel. What will happen? Your metal is
likely to flip out of your hands. Also, be prepared for your
metal to get hot. Stop and let it cool if needed. After you have
buffed your metal, wash it with sudsy ammonia.
If you don’t have a flex shaft or a buffing machine,
your might use #0000 steel wool in water to provide a satin finish
to your metal. You can follow with a polishing cloth if you wish.
Finishing options:
White rouge for a high polish
Floretine bur for a lush satin finish
Scotch pad
Steel wool
Patinas such as liver of sulfur
Brass brush
Texturing wheels
Texturing hammers such as a framing hammer from your home improvement
store
Peen side of your ball peen hammer
Cross peen portion of your riveting hammer
Design stamps
Stakes
Abrasives (sand paper)
Rolling mill
Acid etching
These metal working skills will bring you enjoyment and add
style to your wire work. Don’t forget, it takes time and
practice to become proficient with these new tools and methods.
Don’t hesitate to enroll in a class or ask for help from
an experienced metalsmith if it is needed. And speaking of classes,
I am especially grateful to Deb Jemmott who taught me these fabrication
skills.
Creating texture is my favorite design element and there are
many options in this area. Please look for a tutorial in the
future on texturing methods. |
